Thursday, August 16, 2018

#432 White Devil Sauce

I have made and experimented with many a devil sauce in my time, but this recipe was always annoyingly elusive due to the inclusion of a tricky-to-find ingredient called Harvey’s sauce. Up until the last couple of decades or so, Harvey’s sauce was widely available, but after searching both delis and the internet for years, I gave up. I managed to find recipes for Harvey’s sauce in Victorian cook books, but it was quite an effort and it is required to sit and mature for years before it is ready. The annoying thing is, only half a teaspoon is required to make this devil sauce! However, it used to be so popular in the 19th Century, I didn’t want to omit or substitute it (plus I would be going against the rules of the blog!).


Just a couple of weeks ago I did one final internet search and Bingo! I found what I was looking for. The reason it was so difficult was that it had had a name change. The original company that produced it – Lazenby’s – was bought out by iconic brand Crosse & Blackwell, which, in turn, was partially-bought out by Premier Foods, who sold it as Worcestershire sauce! Although it was no longer for general sale in the UK, it was still very popular in South Africa; and so, a few minutes and a few mouse clicks later I had ordered a bottle and it was getting shipped over to me. All I had to was wait one week for it to arrive.
In the end, Harvey’s sauce does taste pretty similar to Worcestershire sauce, so if you want to make it, just substitute it for the Lee & Perrins.
In a bowl or small jug mix together 1 teaspoon each of French mustard (Dijon or Moutarde de Meaux), anchovy sauce, wine vinegar, salt and sugar, along with ½ teaspoon each of Harvey’s sauce and Worcestershire sauce.
If you are using the sauce cold to go with cold meats, whip ¼ pint of double cream and fold in the above mixture.
Jane suggests spreading the pieces of cold meat with a little more mustard and pour over the sauce using unwhipped cream and pop into a hot oven until everything has heated through and is lightly browned.

I did neither, instead using the sauce to make devilled chicken livers. For this, get a frying pan or skillet very hot and thrown in a good knob of butter. As soon as the butter stops frothing, place the livers in the pan and leave undisturbed for 2 minutes before turning over and cooking 2 minutes more. Pour over the sauce and turn the livers over in it so that they get a good coating. Have some slices of toast ready and place the livers on top. If necessary, boil down the sauce to an appropriately delicious thickness and pour over the livers. Serve at once.

#432 White Devil Sauce. This was delicious, as devil sauces always are, it was highly seasoned but there wasn't enough devil in it for my tastes; I think it could have done with either a good pinch of Cayenne pepper or a good slug of Tabasco sauce. That said, it was horsed down, so it still gets a good score! 8/10.

3 comments:

MandyBrigwell said...

I bought an Oriental version of Worcestershire sauce from our local 'factory outlet' (as they self-style, though what factory they're acting as an outlet for is a mystery) and found it was sweet, slightly-spicy but certainly nothing like the Lee & Perrins. That said, I also tried Aldi's own brand—Henderson's Relish—and found it more akin to the Heinz Oriental variety, but still not unpalatable. There are so many different variations of 'Worcestershire Sauce' floating about, and I do wonder sometimes, when but a small amount is splashed into a recipe, just what difference it makes.

On another note... devil sauces? You speak of them as an established variety of sauce, and yet I know nothing... away to Google with me!

Neil Buttery said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
Neil Buttery said...

I doubt it does make a difference, though some recipes of mine can use quite a quantity! There certainly was no point buying the two different sauces for this recipe (if you look up original recipes in Mrs Beeton for example, they are almost identical!).

You've never had a devil sauce!? Devilled chicken livers were a best seller in my restaurant. Here's a link....https://britishfoodhistory.com/2018/02/05/savouries/

Thanks for the post!