Well, well, well. Here we are at #400! Who
would have thought I’d get this far?
I’ve chosen this classic piece of meat
sculpture for this milestone as it is such a special thing, and hardly seen
these days. Plus, doing it Jane’s way means you don’t simply pop to the butcher’s
shop and ask for the roast assembled and oven-ready. No, Jane’s way means
constructing it yourself; something I really could not have done at the
beginning of this project. This saves you a lot of money, and earns you plenty
of kudos with your friends.
I did a quick look through some old books
and it is odd that this classic and ancient and slightly macabre dish does not
seem to appear before the 20th Century. I must be wrong here – can
anyone shed any light on it?
To make your own rack of lamb, you will
need three things: your lamb, stuffing and a trussing needle & thread.
First, the stuffing: go for any of the
stuffing recipes in the Stuffings section of the
last chapter, or go with the stuffing recipe from #175
Shoulder of Lamb with Rice and Apricot
Stuffing. I chose the latter.
Ok, now the tricky bit. Go to your butcher
and ask for a whole best end of neck; it is from this that you will get your
two, perfectly symmetrical, racks. You should get 7-8 cutlets from each rack.
Here’s what you ask the butcher to do (in Jane’s own words):
- to divide in two down backbone so you have two symmetrical pieces,
- to chine it [this means to remove the backbone],
- to make small cuts between the cutlet bones [this is quite simple to do yourself].
The butcher will desperately try to chop
off the long bones and you must insist he does not! At home, you can get the
racks prepped by French trimming the thin ends; scraping away the fat from the
ribs, just like
#305 Guard of Honour. It’s quite
laborious at first, but you’ll soon get the knack.
Sit the two racks back-to-back with the
fatty sides touching. Take your trussing needle and sew the ends together with
two stiches, making sure the thread is tied good and tight.
Stand it up and shape it into a crown using
your fist – this is where those little cuts the butcher made are
important. Cover the ends with foil and
sit the whole thing on a rack in a foil-lined roasting pan. Season the meat
(especially the fat) and fill the centre with your chosen stuffing.
Roast for 75 minutes at 190⁰C. Remove from the oven, cover with
foil and let the meat rest for 20 minutes or so. If you want to be posh remove
the foil from the ribs and replace with paper ruffles.
But what to serve with roast lamb? Don’t
fear, Grigson has it all covered for us in this
post.
#400 Crown
Roast of Lamb. What a spectacle this was! I loved the way it looked; not
all nice and neat with each rib the same length, but instead the bones were
their natural varied lengths, making it look even more like a real crown. The stuffing was, of
course, great and the meat itself wonderfully tender and medium rare. A
surprising thing bearing in mind it had been a roasting for what seemed like a
long time. The only minor thing is that the stuffing began to char, so I would recommend
covering it with some foil for the first half of the roasting. Nevertheless,
still marvellous. 10/10.
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