Here’s a recipe that I’ve been dying to do
since I first picked up Jane Grigson’s tome and, at Christmastime, I finally
got the chance to cook it (yes, I am THAT behind on writing my posts!).
The main problem, you see, is getting hold
of the neck of a turkey, goose or capon. It’s not the neck muscle that’s
needed; that would be easy! All I’d have to do is rummage inside the giblets bag
and pull the neck out. This recipe requires the neck skin – all of it, from the base of the neck, right up to the beak.
In other words, I needed a fowl with its head still on.
The trouble is, it is very tricky to get one.
I have three very good butchers close to me and none of them could get me a
turkey with its head on! These birds are plucked and gutted mechanically these
days, and the butcher doesn’t have to do a thing when he receives them.
To get a bird with its head on, you have to
know a farmer or keep them yourself. Luckily for me Dalesbread Finest Meats, who
attend Chorlton Market with me (3rd Saturday of the month!), farm
and sell their own meat, including turkey and geese. No problem, they say.
This recipe comes from an early Fifteenth
Century manuscript, jazzily called Harleian MS.279. Here’s the original recipe:
Poddyng of Capoun necke.—Take Percely, gysour, & þe leuer of þe herte,
& perboyle in fayre water; þan choppe hem smal, & put raw ȝolkys of
Eyroun .ij. or .iij. þer-to, & choppe for-with. Take Maces & Clowes,
& put þer-to, & Safroun, & a lytil pouder Pepir, & Salt; &
fille hym vppe & sew hym, & lay him a-long on þe capon Bakke, &
prycke hym þer-on, and roste hym, & serue forth.
Essentially, it’s the skin of the neck
wrapped around some spiced offal to produce some kind of hybrid between a
sausage and a meatloaf.
This is Jane’s somewhat modified version of
that recipe.
First job on the list is to get the neck skin removed from the bird. To do
this, get yourself a pair of good, sharp scissors. Three incisions is all you
need to make, and the first is around the base of the neck, as low as you can
without exposing the breast. Next, cut around the neck end, close to the beak.
Lastly, cut straight up the length of the neck, so that you can remove the skin
in one piece.
This sounds easy. It is not.
Okay, now for the filling. Get yourself a
good-sized mixing bowl and break up 8 ounces of sausagemeat and mix into it a good tablespoon of finely chopped parsley and a couple of egg yolks. Season with salt, pepper, mace and cloves. If you like add a pinch of saffron that has first been soaked in a
tablespoon of hot water.
Lay the neck skin flat on a work surface
and spread half of the mixture over it. Cut the liver of your bird into three pieces and arrange these in a line
going down the centre then spread the remainder of the filling over the top of
that. Pull the edges of the neck skin around, wrapping the filling up, turning
it over and tucking it in. Pop it into a loaf tin.
This sounds easy. It is not.
I could not get the skin to wrap around the
sausagemeat, nowhere near in fact. I tried my best, but it ended up essentially
a meat loaf with some skin draped over it.
Bake at 180⁰C for 45 minutes. Cool and
leave in the fridge so that the flavours can permeate. Slice and eat like a
pâté.
#405 Capon,
Goose or Turkey Neck Pudding / Poddyng of Capoun Necke (1430). This was
both a disaster and a success at the same time. There was far too much filling
for the neck, so as the ‘pudding’ baked the skin shrank, leaving a wrinkled
line of neck flap. However, the filling was absolutely delicious! The liver was
good and creamy and those mediaeval spices complemented the meaty, rich
filling. All pâtés should have cloves and mace added to them, I reckon. Even
though the neck ended up being completely superfluous, it’s still a high
scorer. 7/10
This terrible photo doesn't show it at it's best!
