Seaweed is not so popular in this country
and this recipe requires two different kinds. The first is dulse and I have
used it before to make #307 Mashed Potato with Dulse. There’s some information about dulse on that post, should you
want it.
However, the other seaweed – the one the
fish is stewed in – is not so familiar. It is called fingerware, and according
to the recipe, comes in ½ ounce (or 15g these days) packets. I could find no
mention of fingerware in any of my books, or in shops. I did manage to find its Latin name in
A Dictionary of Food and Nutrition by
David A Bender, but that was all I found though. Here’s the full entry:
fingerware Edible seaweed, Laminaria digitalia
This name sounded familiar (being an
ecologist one picks up the Latin names to some organisms), and it turned out to
be good-old kelp. Now I had something to try and order. Unsurprisingly, I
was able to find it on Amazon, but only in massive triple packs. Hey-ho. It just
had better be bloody nice!
Fingerware, Laminara digitalia, in situ
Now I had my two seaweeds I could cook the
recipe, which, by the way, is one that Jane modified from a book from Karin Perry's Fish Book. Originally,
halibut was used, but you could also use any round sea fish like sea bass, cod, or
grey mullet.
Fingerware how I received it.
Next prepare the fingerware, you’ll need ½ ounce of it. I could only get it in huge
sheets, so I cut out a piece and cut that into broad strips. Pour boiling water
over it and leave it to rehydrate for 30 minutes.
While you wait, get the fish kettle ready:
place two upturned ramekins inside end-to-end to act as a stage for the rack;
the idea here is that the fish cooks in the steam rather than in the water. Lay
the fingerware over the rack and then brush the upper side of the fish with
some melted butter. Season it with salt and pepper, and then lay the fish butter-side-down on the rack. Brush
the other side of the fish with more melted butter and season. Don’t forget to
season inside the fish too. Lay the rest of the fingerware over the fish.Next, get some hot water on ready to pour into the kettle. Cut a piece of kitchen foil large enough to cover the fish in its kettle; the lid cannot be used because of the ramekins. Pour in the hot water, then place the rack and fish inside the kettle. Cover with foil, put over two burners and steam for 15 minutes.
When the time is up, have a little look and
see if the fish is done. You could use a knife to have a little inspection, or
pull a fin; if ready the fin should pull out in a satisfying way. If not ready,
leave another 5 minutes.
When done, take the kettle from the heat,
but keep the foil over it for another 15 minutes. While you wait, prepare the
hollandaise sauce.
Take 2 tablespoons of crumbled, dry dulse in a bowl and pour over it boiling
water. Leave for 2 minutes, strain it in a sieve and refresh with cold water.
Pat dry with kitchen paper.
Start by cutting 7 ounces of softened unsalted butter into small cubes. Place
3 egg yolks in a bowl along with a
tablespoon of water. Whisk well and
then place the bowl over a pan of simmering water. Then, whisking all the time,
add one or two cubes of butter and when incorporated add a couple more cubes
until all the cubes are used up. Season with salt, pepper and lemon juice and stir in the dulse.
When portioning out the fish, Jane
suggests, giving each person a small piece of the fingerware. She also suggests
to accompany it with boiled new potatoes and samphire or blanched cucumber or
mange tout.
#389 Salmon Stewed in Seaweed with Dulse Hollandaise. Hmmm. A tricky one to judge, this one. I thought the salmon was cooked very nicely and one cannot ever complain about hollandaise sauce. The problem was the seaweed didn’t seem to add anything at all to the dish. I think if I had used partially-dried dulse like you can get in Ireland, fried it to make it crispy and used that in the sauce, it would have made a world of difference. For that, it loses points, so let’s say 6/10.
#389 Salmon Stewed in Seaweed with Dulse Hollandaise. Hmmm. A tricky one to judge, this one. I thought the salmon was cooked very nicely and one cannot ever complain about hollandaise sauce. The problem was the seaweed didn’t seem to add anything at all to the dish. I think if I had used partially-dried dulse like you can get in Ireland, fried it to make it crispy and used that in the sauce, it would have made a world of difference. For that, it loses points, so let’s say 6/10.
3 comments:
Can you tell me where this Jane Grigson fish and kelp recipe comes from?
Can you cite this salmon and kelp recipe? Is it Jane Grigson?
thanks
Hi Fiona
All the recipes with a '#' are from English Food by Jane Grigson. I got the kelp and dried flaked dulse from Amazon of all places
Post a Comment