This was one of the recipes in English Food that I had been looking
forward to making, but never seemed to around to making it. I had a bounty of
garden peas on my allotment plot, so it was silly not to try it. I am very glad
that I did make it; it was so delicious, I made it for the main course at my
pop-up restaurant I run every now and again from my house.
There are very few ingredients in this dish
and it is very easy, except for the very end where an egg yolk based sauce is
required – easy if you make your own custard regularly, tricky if not.
Jane writes no introduction for this recipe
but it strikes me as a very French one; peas are not the only vegetable braised
with the duck, because there is some lettuce in there too. In fact, take the
duck away, and you are essentially left with French pea soup.
This recipe serves 4 to 5 people.
Jane starts off with the rather vague
instruction: ‘Use the duck giblets to make the stock in advance. Boil it down
to 300 ml (1/2 pt) or a little more.’
In brief, here’s what I did: Get a couple
of tablespoons of sunflower or rapeseed oil really hot in a saucepan
and toss in the neck, heart and gizzard of the bird, which have been cut into
pieces (no need for the liver, fry it in butter, eat it on toast). Let the
giblets get nice and brown. Add some chopped stock vegetables (trimmings are good here) such as carrot, leek,
onion, celery; some herbs like thyme
or lemon thyme, a bay leaf, a rosemary sprig and some parsley stalks; and some spices like peppercorns, cloves and
some pared orange or lemon rind. Add some water to just cover the giblets and
vegetables. Bring very slowly to a bare simmer and let it tick over for a good
three or four hours. Strain and skim it, then boil down. Season lightly with salt.
Okay, duck stock made, what next? Take your
duck, which should weigh 4 or 5
pounds, and prick it all over with a fork, focussing your pricking around the
very fatty thighs. Make a massive bouquet
garni using bay, parsley, thyme and rosemary and
stuff it into the cavity of the duck. Heat a little more oil in a frying pan and slowly brown the duck all over, so that the
fat can run out.
Take your richly-browned duck and pop it,
breast down, in a deep ovenproof pot, pour over the stock, bring to a simmer
and let it bubble very gently for 1 ¼ hours.
When the time is up, turn ducky the right
way round and add a pound of freshly shelled peas and a large shredded
lettuce. Pop the lid of the saucepan back on and simmer for a further 45
minutes.
Carefully remove the duck and prepare it as
you like, I prefer to carve the breast meat and to divide the legs into thighs
and drumsticks. On a serving dish, spoon the peas and lettuce, and then place
the pieces of duck meat on top. Cover with foil and keep warm whilst you get on
with the sauce.
Strain the stock and skim if need be. Give
it a taste, and if it seems a little insipid, reduce it. Beat together two egg yolks and four tablespoons of double cream. Pour in around half of
the stock, whisking the eggs and cream all the time. Pour the egg mixture back
into the saucepan and stir it over a low heat until it thickens slightly. Don’t
let it boil, otherwise, you’ll get scrambled eggs. Season with salt and pepper and sharpen it with a little lemon juice. Pour some sauce over the duck and the remainder of it
in a sauceboat.
#399 Duck
Stewed with Green Peas. This was a great recipe. The trick to get nice and
juicy duck is to simmer the duck extremely gently; the merest gurgle of a
bubble is all that is required. It’s worth noting that the cooking times Jane
gives are far too long. When I repeated the recipe for the pop-up I simmered
the duck for an hour, added the peas and lettuce, and then simmered for 20-30
minutes. For the pop-up, I trebled the recipe and then had to make three batches
over the three nights, i.e. nine times Jane’s recipe. This means I had to shell
a lot of peas – around 15 pounds to get the nine pounds required in all. It was
a bloody nightmare. Anyway, the peas and lettuce were good and sweet after the braising,
producing succulent duck and a really delicious silky sauce. Lovely. 9/10.
